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Types of Pool Chemicals Explained
Written By: poolgeek.com
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Pool Chemicals are essential to keep your pool properly balanced, which will not only give swimmers outstanding water quality, but will keep your valuable pool equipment and surfaces safe. The most important chemcials are ph balancers, alkalinity balancers, algaecides, sanitizers, clarifiers, metal controllers, foam removers and pool shocks. In order to properly apply these chemicals, however, you must use testing strips or take a water sample to your local pool professional. These strips are available from many different manufacturers, and give you highly accurate results in minutes, eliminating any guesswork when balancing your pool water.
pH Balancers
pH balancers are critical to maintaining the proper pH range of 7.2 to 7.6, which determines the overall health of your pool. If too low, your pool plumbing and surfaces will start to severely corrode, while too high a level will cause ugly scale deposits to grow along with cloudy water. An unbalanced pH will also cause swimmer eye and skin irritation as well as reduce chemical efficiency. pH balancers will, depending on the product chosen, raise or lower your pool pH in steady increments to get it into 7.2 to 7.6 range.
Alkalinity Balancers
Alkalinity balancers are another critical part of pool chemistry, and help keep your pool in the optimal 80-160 ppm range. This will not only result in a more comfortable pool for swimmers, but will eliminate the dreaded "pH bounce" that makes proper pool balancing all but impossible. If alkalinity is too low, pool plumbing and surfaces will start to corrode, while too high a level will cause ugly scale deposits and cloudy water conditions. Also like unbalanced pH, an unbalanced alkalinity will also cause eye and swimmer irritation and chemical inefficiency. Depending on the product selected, alkalinity balancers will raise or lower alkalinity levels in steady increments to the optimal 80-160 ppm range.
Algaecides
Algaecides are the easiest and most effective way to prevent and remove all types of algae growth from your pool, which can ruin water quality and clog pool filters. Algaecides are available in both granular and liquid formulas to fit your needs or budget, and come in a wide variety of formulas to tackle green, blue-green, mustard and black algae types.
Sanitizers
Sanitizers are the most important chemical additive you can add to your pool, removing bacteria and other harmful contaminants from pool water. The most common sanitizers are chlorine and bromine, although there are proprietary sanitizers available from several brands. They are available in several forms, including liquid, granular, tablets and sticks to fit your pools specific needs or equipment.
Clarifiers
Clarifiers are another handy pool chemical that quickly eliminates cloudy water conditions in your pool, restoring it to its former beauty. Standard clarifiers attract together microscopic particles into larger ones, allowing your filter to remove them. Flocculant clarifiers also attract microscopic particles into larger ones, but its formula sinks them to the pool bottom for easy vacuum removal. Either type will produce the jewel-like brilliance you remember in just minutes.
Metal Controllers
Metal Controllers enable pool owners to remove copper, iron, manganese and other metals from their pool water, preventing staining and water discoloration. These chemicals are especially useful in areas with hard water, although metals can get into your pool through other means. Metal preventors stop metals from getting into your pool, while metal removers eliminate metals already present.
Foam Removers
Foam Removers are an easy and affordable way to remove annoying foam buildup on your pools surface caused by heavy swimmer loads. Products such as deodorant, soaps, lotions and other cosmetics from swimmers creates this foam, which foam remover can cut through in just seconds to restore your pool to its former beauty.
Pool Shock
Pool Shocks are necessary to sanitize your pool after heavy swimmer loads or simply when your pool sanitizer is overwhelmed by the contaminants in your pool. Chlorine-based shocks eliminate any bacteria or other organics from your pool water, while Monopersulfate or MPS shocks give you the same results without disturbing your pools chlorine levels. When used as part of your routine pool maintenance, your pool will stay clean and healthy throughout the pool season.
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by ruth anderson,
crane, missouri
on 6/19/2009
Title:
Pool Clarifiers
How long after adding this product can you vacuum and swim?
Answers| by Aurelie Martins, Brighton, MI on 6/19/2009 | | Title: Re: Pool Clarifiers | | “Hello Ruth!
If you are using a pool clarifier, it is okay to vacuum at any point. However, for the bathing it will depend on the type of clarifier that you are using and the directions included. What kind of clarifier are you currently using? ” | |
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by Norma,
Midland, Texas
on 6/23/2009
Title:
How to clean dead algae in the pool
I have dead algae in my water and the sand filter is not filtering it. What can I do to get my pool back to sparkling blue water? My pool is very cloudy. Please help. I used floc already and it helped somewhat.
Answers| by Aurelie Martins, Brighton, MI on 6/23/2009 | | Title: Re: How to clean dead algae in the pool | | “Hi Norma!
A sand filter will not be able to remove all the dead algae in your pool because it does not have the capability. Since the floc worked for you, I would recommend you continue to use the product until the algae is gone. Using a floc will gather the algae particles and make them sink to the bottom of the pool so that you can vacuum them out. Along with the floc, you can use a Filter Aid. It will help in the filtration of small particles that would normally be missed by the filter. If you type “Filter Aid” in our search bar you will be able to view all of the product options.
” | |
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by Fred,
Tonkawa, OK
on 7/1/2009
Title:
Very Cloudy Water
I am having a hard time keeping my pool clear. Right now you can barely see the bottom. How can I clear this up? The temp here has been 100 + for a week or 2.
Answers| by Aurelie Martins, Brighton, MI on 7/2/2009 | | Title: Re: Very Cloudy Water | | “Hello Fred! There could be several factors that are causing your pool water to be cloudy. Your pool water chemistry could be one of the reasons; lack of shocking, high pH, high Total Alkalinity, and high Calcium Hardness. This can cause the chlorine to react slowly and therefore not control algae and bacteria as well. If it has been over 100 degrees for several weeks, the high Calcium Hardness can cause cloudiness. I would begin by testing your pool water and adjusting your chemical levels accordingly. You will want to shock your pool up to 10 PPM and then test your chlorine levels again. The chlorine levels should be stabilized at 3 PPM for a couple of days. The MOST IMPORTANT THING is to run your filter for 24 hours until your pool water clears up. If, after shocking your pool, the chlorine does not stay at 3 PPM for a couple of days or the water continues to be cloudy, you will need to use a water clarifier. ” | |
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by Rick,
Oak Lawn, IL
on 7/7/2009
Title:
Waterboatmen and backswimmers
How do you get rid of backswimmers in your swimming pool?
Answers| by Matthew Austin, Brighton, MI on 7/8/2009 | | Title: Re: Waterboatment and backswimmers | | “We suggest using BioGuard Back Up Algaecide to prevent floating bugs in swimming pools. However, if you have a fountain or attached spa this is not an option. BioGuard Back Up changes the properties of the water and can create foam with fountains or attached spas. This same change in the water is what helps rid your water of these floating bugs.” | |
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by Sherry Roberson,
Lindale, GA
on 7/8/2009
Title:
Small Pool Chemicals
I purchased a round vinyl pool and it is 10 ft. and 24 inches deep and holds 900 gallons of water. The water is a little cloudy. Do I add a chlorine tablet or add some liquid algae to it? I don't know how much to use. It is a small pool. Never had a pool, I got it for my niece for when she is here.
Answers| by Matthew, Brighton, MI on 7/8/2009 | | Title: Re: Small Pool Chemicals | | “Sherry, with any pool you need to keep the chlorine level between 2-4 ppm in order to keep the water clear and safe to swim in. Also, you need to filter the water at least 12 hours a day during normal operation and 24 hours a day when cloudy. We suggest purchasing a simple test kit and performing those tests daily to ensure your water is sanitized (chlorine) and balanced (pH). Good luck and I hope your niece enjoys her swim.” | |
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by Tony,
Chicago, IL
on 7/14/2009
Title:
How Do I Use My Chemicals?
I bought a pool 15x52 and I don't know how to use the chemicals. What to add first, how to use it, or how much water my pool is holding so that I can add the chemicals.
Answers| by Aurelie Martins, Brighton, MI on 7/14/2009 | | Title: Re: How Do I Use My Chemicals? | | “Hi Tony! In order to give you the best advice, I'm going to need a couple more bits of information from you. 1) What is the depth of the pool? 2) Is the pool a rectangle? 3) What kind of sanitizer system do you have? Salt, chlorine, bromine? 4) Are you opening the pool for the first time or has it been running? 5) Are you using a particular brand of chemicals? ” | |
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by Holly,
Cypress, Texas
on 7/22/2009
Title:
Yellow Slime On Walls
Pool Geek: My chemicals test fine. However, there seems to be a faint yellow-like slime on the walls. Brushing removes it, but it comes right back the next day. HELP! I have a salt water pool.
Answers| by Aurelie Martins, Brighton, MI on 7/22/2009 | | Title: Re: Yellow Slime On Walls | | “Hi Holly! It sounds like you have a problem with yellow algae. Brushing it will remove it, but it will always come back without an algaecide. I would recommend shocking your pool and using an algae remover along with an algae preventative in the future. For algae removers, BioGuard Banish is highly recommended, along with Robarb Yello Free and Applied BioChemists Yellowtrine (both remove yellow algae). ” | |
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by Paul Riley ,
Commerce, MI
on 7/22/2009
Title:
Pool Chlorinators
Would you recommend a stick or tablets for a chlorinator? And what brand(s) would be good? Thanks
Answers| by Matthew, Brighton, MI on 7/22/2009 | | Title: RE: Pool Chlorinators | | “Paul...Different chlorinators required different types of tablet or stick chlorine. Do you know what brand or type of automatic chlorinator you have? ” | |
| by Jan, Bel Air, MD on 7/22/2009 | | Title: Pricing through PoolGeek .com | | “First, I would like to say these are the best prices around.... I have searched for BioGuard locally and I am paying a 3rd more for the supplies if I buy locally.” | |
| by Paul, Commerce on 7/23/2009 | | Title: Reply to RE: Pool Chlorinators | | “Well the chlorinator is inline. It is Hayward CL200 Automatic Chlorinator which says to either use tablets or sticks. But I also see that it tells me not to mix brands or chlorine tablets with bromine tablets. What would the effect be?” | |
| by Aurelie Martins, Brighton, MI on 7/23/2009 | | Title: Reply to RE: Pool Chlorinators | | “Mixing brands or formulas can start a fire. Sticks and 3 Inch Tablets have a larger surface area and dissolve slower, while 1 Inch Tablets have more surface area for the water to touch and dissolve faster. What you choose to use will depend on whether you are having trouble keeping the chlorine high enough or low enough.
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by William,
Wellington, Ohio
on 7/22/2009
Title:
How To Get My Chlorine Up To The Prescribed Level
I bought a house with a pool and have no experience with chemicals. I drained the pool and started with fresh water. I bought the strips and it seems that no matter how much chlorine I put in I just can't seem to get the free chlorine level up to the prescribed level. I am using the blocks in my filter system. The pool is about 18'x 33'with an average depth of 4.5'. I need your advice. Bill
Answers| by Aurelie Martins, Brighton, MI on 7/22/2009 | | Title: Re: How To Get My Chlorine Up To The Prescribed Level | | “Hi Bill! To get your Free Chlorine level up to the prescribed level, I would recommend a lot of shock. Make sure the CYA (Stabilizer Level) is correct, as this will protect the chlorine from the sun. Hope this helps! ” | |
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by Jennifer Dokken ,
Oklahoma City, OK
on 7/22/2009
Title:
Question on pool chemicals
How soon can you return to using the pool after using Ph down? Thanks.
Answers| by Aurelie Martins, Brighton, MI on 7/22/2009 | | Title: Re: Question On Pool Chemicals | | “Hi Jennifer! To account for the safe distribution of the pH down, I would recommend waiting an hour before using your pool. However, always check your product bottle for further suggestions/directions. ” | |
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by Maria Adams ,
Altus, OK
on 7/22/2009
Title:
How To Treat Visible Algae
I am having to drain my pool and once I have completed that, I need to wipe the algae residue off. I have been told to use a powerful acid cleaner to remove the algae. What you would recommend?
Answers| by Aurelie Martins, Brighton, MI on 7/22/2009 | | Title: Re: How To Treat Visible Algae | | “Hi Maria! To treat visible algae, you do not have to drain your pool. We recommend either of these two products for your algae problem: OMNI ALGAE TERMINATOR This is a non-staining algaecide that will help kill your pool algae. It can be used with chlorine or bromine pools and with all surfaces and filter types. BIOGUARD BANISH Destroys all types of pool algae. Approved for both chlorine and bromine pools and does not affect pH levels, so no readjusting is necessary after application. To treat the visible algae: 1) Shock your pool. We suggest Breakout Extra, BurnOut Extreme, or BurnOut 35. You will want to follow the product directions to know what amount to add to your pool. 2) Allow your pool water to circulate for 1 hour. 3) With the pump and filter operating, apply either BioGuard Banish or Algae Terminator according to the product directions. You will want to apply the product to the pool water with the areas of heaviest algae growth. 4) Continuously circulate the pool water for the next 24 hours. 5) Afterwards, thoroughly brush the pool surfaces. If you have concrete surfaces, you can use a stainless steel brush. For all other surfaces, the plastic brushes are recommended. 6) Prior to re-entry, test the chlorine level. Do not re-enter the pool until the chlorine level is between 1-4 ppm. 7) In cases of persistent algae, repeat brushing and application after 2-4 days. ” | |
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by Irene,
Cincinnati OH
on 7/22/2009
Title:
Grey film not budging
There is a grey film on most of the surface of our pool which will not brush off. The water is clear. Several weeks ago I used a clarifier, and I think these particles may be from that. However, the tiny particles seem to have adhered to the pool surface in most places. You can see brush marks from the vacuum, looking like it was coming up for awhile and then in the middle of the vacuuming it stopped budging. Is that possible? I am stumped. Any help would be appreciated.
Answers| by Aurelie Martins, Brighton, MI on 7/22/2009 | | Title: Re: Grey film not budging | | “Hello Irene! To give you the most accurate advice on your staining problem, I’m going to need to ask you a few questions first: 1) What is your pool made of? (white plaster, colored plaster, vinyl, or fiberglass)
2) Are you on well water or city water? ” | |
| by Irene Shooner, Cincinnati OH on 7/24/2009 | | Title: RE: Grey film | | “The vertical sides of the pool are made of fiberglass, but the entire "bowl" - the lower sloping part of the sides and the bottom are painted concrete. Both areas have the film. We are on city water. Our winter cover is porous and when we first opened the pool the water was very acidic, according to our pool supply store clerk because of acid rain. When we installed the ladders, they turned from chrome-colored to copper colored, so this may be a clue. Whatever caused it, I can't figure out why it came up at first and then seemed to stop, and how can we get it off?
Thank you!” | |
| by Aurelie Martins, Brighton, MI on 7/24/2009 | | Title: Re: Grey film | | “Yes, acidic rain water can affect the pH in your pool water. The grey stain you have could be caused by a number of things. Often, in fiberglass pools, copper stains can appear grey to bluish black. If indeed you have a copper stain problem, Jack’s Magic Stain Solution 2, ProTeam Metal Magic, and GLB Sequa Sol are all good products to use to remove them. However, I would recommend using Jack’s Magic Stain ID Kit first before you waste money on chemicals that may not work. It will give you an easy way to treat the stain problem by applying the proper treatment. It gives you 4 test chemicals to use on the stain problem; whichever one quickly cuts through the stain is the product that will effectively remove it. Since you describe a film, it could also be due to the water clarifier that you used. What kind was it? If you do use the Stain ID Kit and still get no results, let us know, we can offer other options. Hope this helps!” | |
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by Jason B,
Fort Myers, FL
on 7/26/2009
Title:
Topping pool off with well water
My pool went from crystal clear to almost dark brown after I added about 4 inches of water to my pool. I think my pool is about 15,000 gallons. What should I use to fix this and what should I do next time the water level is low? The well water here is horrible. Is there some kind of hose filter? HELP!
Answers| by Aurelie Martins, Brighton, MI on 7/27/2009 | | Title: Re: Topping pool off with well water | | “Hello Jason! It sounds like you may have a metal problem with your pool water (copper, iron, manganese). I would suggest a metal control product such as Natural Chemistry's Metal Free. You will want to use this on a regular basis to prevent the brown water. The product also has directions for what to do when topping off your pool, which should help with the brown tinted water the next time you add water.” | |
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by Jim Brown,
Anderson, SC
on 7/27/2009
Title:
Brown Stain
I have a brown stain on the water ring opposite side of my returns. I have tried everything to get the stain off, but nothing works. Can you help?
Answers| by Aurelie Martins, Brighton, MI on 7/27/2009 | | Title: Re: Brown Stain | | “Hi Jim! Typically brown stains can be caused by metals in the pool water, usually iron. These metals may be in the water that you use to fill the pool if you have well water or use hard water. They can also appear when your pH and alkalinity levels aren’t optimal. If it is a metal stain, a metal stain remover will help. However, to avoid spending more money on chemicals that may not work, I would recommend using Jack’s Magic Stain ID Kit, as testing the stain will be the most important. The ID Kit gives you 4 test chemicals to apply to the stain. Whichever one cuts through the stain quickly is the product that will effectively remove it. Please be aware that if you have a lot of metals in your pool water and the stain keeps returning, you will have to partially drain your pool water and refill it with water that tested metal-free. ” | |
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by Marion,
FL
on 7/28/2009
Title:
Pools with well water
Hello.
I was wondering what is your best product for well water? I add liquid chlorine then what is the best algeside or clairfier I need? Do i really need to run my pump 6 hours a day? Thanks, Marion
Answers| by Aurelie Martins, Brighton, MI on 7/28/2009 | | Title: Re: Pools with well water | | “Hello Marion! Your pump should run long enough to cycle the pool water twice. This will vary by pool size but it can be anywhere from 8 to 12 hours. For an algaecide, I would recommend BioGuard Back Up Algaecide. It prevents a variety of algae growth and will not evaporate. It’s also non-staining and won’t affect the pH levels. For a clarifier, I would recommend BioGuard Polysheen Blue. It helps with the filtration of cloudy water and works with all pool and filter types. It also won’t affect the pH level. Since you are using well water, you could use a pool metal control product like Natural Chemistry’s Metal Free. Sometimes with well water you can get dissolved metals such as iron, copper, magnesium, and manganese in the pool water that cause staining of pool surfaces and water discoloration. You can use this product when you first fill your pool, at the beginning of the pool season, and at the end of the season to prevent discoloration. ” | |
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by Marianne,
Bayville, NJ
on 7/28/2009
Title:
Pink Mold
I have a Bacquacil pool and I am using the CDX system. I saw the pink and tried pink treat but it came back. I was thinking of using ProTeam weekly. Can you help?
Answers| by Aurelie Martins, Brighton, MI on 7/28/2009 | | Title: Re: Pink Mold | | “Hi Marianne! Pinkish-red slime in pools is a fungus, usually more prevalent in biguanide pools. It's caused by rain, soil, or contaminated swim suits and can grow in circulation piping. If you are using Baquacil, you will need to clean the pool well (including in the crevices of the skimmer, in the back of the underwater light, under the ladder treads, in the back of the return eyeballs, etc.). You’ll want to clean any area that has poor water circulation and is hidden. You need to shock through the skimmer to clean out the lines. You’ll want to use a clarifier and oxidizer like BioGuard’s Soft Swim C and add it through the skimmer - but add it slowly. That should help to clear up the pink slime. ” | |
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by Kathy Candler,
on 8/3/2009
Title:
Purifiers for pools
What does a Nature 2 pool purifier do? What is a decent price installed for one?
Answers| by Aurelie Martins, Brighton, MI on 8/3/2009 | | Title: Re: Purifiers for pools | | “Hi Kathy! The Nature 2 Pool Purifier provides you with a way to reduce your chlorine consumption. By using copper and silver to boost the sanitation, your pool uses less chlorine. You'll have less eye and skin irritation and less chlorine odor because it will improve the water quality. You only have to replace the filter every 4 months and it can be adjusted to fit most common filters, you simply drop into your filter. ” | |
| by Tom Frieling, Athens, GA on 8/4/2009 | | Title: Nature 2 | | “We've been using the Nature 2 system for over ten years and love it. For some reason it seems to make keeping the pH levels more easily in balance. When we used chlorine for sanitation, sometimes we'd get huge pH and total alkalinity excursions and it was a pain to get things balanced again. But we've not had those problems since using Nature 2--I highly recommend it!” | |
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by Tom Frieling,
Athens, GA
on 8/4/2009
Title:
Maintenance Recipe for Nature 2 System
We use the Nature 2 system in our pool (a 16 x 36 foot pool--about 26,000 gallons) and I'm wondering what algaecide and what shock treatment I need to use for the weekly maintenance recipe. I've been told not to use any algaecide or shock treatment that has copper in it as that can ruin the effectiveness of the Nature 2 cartridge. If that's true, what shock is best? I was once told to use only oxygen-based shock and only occasionally shock the pool with chlorine-based shock. Is that correct?
Thanks for your advice.
Answers| by Aurelie Martins, Brighton, MI on 8/4/2009 | | Title: RE: Maintenance Recipe for Nature 2 System | | “Hello Tom! For your Nature 2 System, I would recommend using BioGuard Easy Shock and Swim. It’s an easy-to-use weekly shock that has no copper in it. The Smart Shock does have copper in it. For your algaecide, you could use BioGuard Algae All 60. It doesn’t contain copper and will not foam. ” | |
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by John Marino,
Sherrills Ford, NC
on 8/5/2009
Title:
Chlorine with Stabilizer
Recently, I switched to using Chlorine tablets that included a stabilizer. Now, I've heard that I should not use a stabilizer in my in-ground fiberglass pool. Am I making a mistake; and if so, can I switch back to non stabilized tablets without harming my pool or the equipment?
Answers| by Aurelie Martins, Brighton, MI on 8/5/2009 | | Title: Re: Chlorine with Stabilizer | | “Hi John! You can switch back to non stabilized tablets without harming your pool or equipment; just don’t mix the tablets together in the pool with the old ones. Also, all non stabilized chlorine tablets are calcium based, so usually you will have problems with too high of calcium levels if you use that type.
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by Glenn Ruoff,
Rehoboth, DE 19971
on 8/10/2009
Title:
Iron Stain Removal
I have a San Juan fiberglass inground pool with extensive, light brown staining on walls and bottom. What is the most effective method for removing existing stain and preventing the return of same?
Answers| by Aurelie Martins, Brighton, MI on 8/10/2009 | | Title: Re: Iron Stain Removal | | “Hello Glenn! If you have iron stains in your pool, you will need to use a metal stain remover. If the stain keeps returning, you may have to partially drain your pool and refill it with water that has been tested as metal-free. To prevent this kind of staining in the future, I would recommend the use of a metal stain prevention chemical in your routine maintenance. These help to neutralize the dissolved iron and copper in your pool water. Removing the dissolved metals will take away any chance of developing metal-based stains. ” | |
| by Jillene Holmes, Oroville, California on 8/18/2009 | | Title: Staining on fiberglass inground pool | | “Joey, Our pool's gel coating we were told is breaking down, the pool turns the color of a tea bag. Chlorine causes the color change. I use Jack's Magic #1 stain solution. It clears it right up. During hot weather I am having to use at least (2) two pound bottles a month. Is there anything else that might be cheaper that would do the same job? The pool place tested the water and told us it's either Jack's Magic or paying to have the pool sanded and re gel coated. Right now Jack's Magic is the cheaper route.
Hoping you might have an idea for us.” | |
| by Aurelie Martins, Brighton, MI on 8/19/2009 | | Title: RE: Staining on fiberglass inground pool | | “Hi Jillene! Using Jack's Magic in your preventative maintenance is going to be the best thing to prevent the staining. However, Jack's Magic Stain Solution 1 is a stain remover. To ensure that you don't have the stains, you will want to use a stain preventer. Jack's Magic The Pink Stuff will help prevent the staining in your pool. You can use it in your weekly maintenance and it should be cheaper than the stain remover. ” | |
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by Mary R,
Toms River, NJ
on 8/10/2009
Title:
Question
I use the synergy system...is there really a difference in chemicals? It gets a little expensive....
Answers| by Aurelie Martins, Brighton, MI on 8/10/2009 | | Title: Re: Question | | “Hi Mary! The benefits of the Synergy System is that it is an all-in-one kit and very simple to use. To keep your pool sparkling clean, you simply just use the supplied treatments. The tabs also have algaecides in them so there is no need to buy extra algaecide chemicals. If you are happy with the Synergy System, we recommend staying with that brand. However, if you’d like to explore other chemical brand options, we’d be glad to help!” | |
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by Joey,
AZ
on 8/17/2009
Title:
White Ring On Tile
I have an inground pool and I keep the chemical levels at a perfect state and yet I still get a white line on my tile. I do live in AZ and the temp does stay in the triple digits for a month or two, is this happening due to evaporation?
Answers| by Aurelie Martins, Brighton, MI on 8/17/2009 | | Title: RE: White Ring On Tile | | “Hello Joey! Does the white line wipe off easily or does it have to be scrubbed? It sounds like it could be calcium or just a regular scum line. If it is due to high calcium you would want to use a Stain and Scale Remover. If it is just a scum line then you would want to use a Pool Surface Cleaner. As for the high evaporation rate, I would say that it's not helping the calcium/scum situation. ” | |
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by Jacob,
Overland Park, Kansas
on 8/20/2009
Title:
Biguanide questions
I have been in the pool industry for about 8 years now and have customers who have Biguanide pools and as hard as I try to convert them back to a known and trusted sanitizer, there are still some hold outs. The store that I work for is a bioguard dealer so it is Soft Swim that I work with. My QUESTION is, there used to be a product for bioguard called Soft Swim Assist that was used in a closed loop to clear out the water mold that seems to constantly build up in the lines. I am nearly positive that this product was just 1" tablets under a different lable but don't know for sure so I can't justify having people with a clairifier demand try using chlorine tabs (even in a closed loop) to try and fix it and there are no other products out that I know of to fix a demand. Ideas?
Answers| by Aurelie Martins, Brighton, MI on 8/20/2009 | | Title: RE: Biguanide questions | | “Hello Jacob! Unfortunately, there is no replacement for the Soft Swim Assist. To remove white mold in biguanide pools, BioGuard recommends using a closed loop treatment. You will want to use 1 pound of Burnout 35 for 10 minutes. Turn the pump off and be careful when you disconnect the hose not to get chlorine in the biguanide system. You'll also want to use a flocculate treatment followed by brushing of the surfaces. Then, retreat the pool with Soft Swim A, B, and C. ” | |
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